//Lisbon//

The few pictures I took on a mini-break to Lisbon a few years ago. The most miniscule of mini-breaks; we were in the city for less than 36 hours!

Due to current travel restrictions, I’m living vicariously through my old travel photos and optimistically (but hesitantly) planning future trips. I have very fond memories of Lisbon, in part due to the beautiful October weather we had. It’s a standing joke among my friends that I always take the British rain with me wherever I travel, so this made a nice change! Though 33 degrees at 8pm was a bit of a shock to the system …

All we lacked in Lisbon was time, not helped by getting ridiculously lost on the first day. This trip had been sandwiched between two busy work weeks and all planned around a concert at Coliseu dos Recreios (brilliant but sweltering given the evening temperatures). Which left us with only the Saturday afternoon and early Sunday morning to explore …

Lisbon Recommendations:

  • Go for a wander – I say this for every city … but it’s especially rewarding somewhere like Lisbon’s Alfama district. I could have spent weeks ambling around the sloping cobbled streets, admiring the terracotta rooftops and and vibrant buildings. Colour is everywhere at street-level in this part of town: window boxes bursting with flowers alongside painted doorways and street art everywhere!
  • São Jorge Castle – the views from the gardens are spectacular!
  • Mercado da Ribeira/TimeOut Market – indoor food markets are always a must and this one is especially varied.
  • Rossio Square – just quite impressive. Better to go before it gets too dark.
  • Padrão dos Descobrimentos – the Portuguese are proud their 15th century explorers …
  • Pastéis de nata – delicious custard tarts affectionately known as ‘natas’. I won’t confess how many we ate but enough that I can assuredly state they best enjoyed warm

No doubt I’ll return for ‘Lisbon: The Sequel’ in the future so please share any recommendations. What have I missed out on? Is Sintra worth a visit? What is your favourite local food?

xx

Review: Once – Morris Gleitzman

‘I got you the boots because everybody deserves to have something good in their life at least once’

‘Once’ by Morris Gleitzman

Currently reading this book with my class as part of our World War 2 topic. It reminds me a lot of John Boyne’s ‘The Boy in the Striped Pyjamas’ but in this case from the perspective of a Jewish boy called Felix in Poland. An interesting read yet, in class discussions, I’m aware that the inference is fairly subtle with regard to the contextual events engulfing Felix’s life – more so than I had first thought. As such, my interpretation of the book was very different to that of the students, sort of reiterating the author’s point!?
The sparks of humour are also nuanced; there were more than a few parts that made me chuckle. But then just as many that had me misty-eyed or teary intermittently throughout …

‘Even the nuns don’t get whole carrots, and they get bigger servings than us kids because they need extra energy for being holy’

‘ “Yes but where?”, says a woman wearing a scarf. A man with his arm round her rolls his eyes. He looks like he’s done it before, so he’s probably her husband’

‘Thank you God, Jesus, Mary, the Pope and Richmal Crompton!’

Rating: 3 out of 5.

Mini-Review: Very British Problems – Rob Temple

I’ve just finished Very British Problems by Rob Temple. I was looking for a lighthearted, humorous read and this was just the ticket! Obviously it’s quite a specific book – the title itself sets out the target audience – so it may not be for everyone, but it was exactly my cup of tea …

My Favourite ‘Very British Problems’

  1. Looking into having your hands surgically removed after waving at someone who was waving at someone behind you.
  2. Sneaking a few empties into your regular bin bag so the recycling collectors won’t think you have a alcohol problem.
  3. Having a sky that thinks it fun to mimic the colour of the pavement.
  4. Switching from ‘kind regards’ to ‘regards’ as a warning that you’re dangerously close to losing your temper.
  5. Deciding which loyalty card to sacrifice to de-ice the windscreen.
  6. Being prepared to argue to the death, at any given moment, over the correct method of making tea.

Let me know if there are any others you would add!

B x

Rating: 4 out of 5.

//Berlin//

Berlin is one of my favourite cities – vibrant, fascinatingly historic yet somehow simultaneously modern … it’s just really cool.

We went for the Christmas markets in mid-December – definitely worth a trip! Beautiful lights and decorations everywhere, stalls brimming with unique gifts to bring home. Not to mention the delicious food and drink: Bratwurst, crispy fries, fluffy pancakes, hot chocolate, Eierpunsch (similar to eggnog), glühwein …. need I go on? Generally speaking, though the big Alexanderplatz and Weihnachtszauber market are better known, I would recommend the smaller set-ups. The Nikolaiviertel market is in a beautiful little church square, tucked away from the tourist masses and also hosts an outdoor cinema. Then if you fancy something a bit different, the Eco-Christmas market on Sophienstraße is fab too ❤

But be sure to take a warm coat at that time of year, as the markets are mostly open-air and the temperature has a habit of hovering below 0 degrees Celsius. It will also be incredibly busy; the markets are popular and therefore very crowded. It’s not a drawback necessarily, just something to be considered. As is the fact that, like many tourist attractions, the markets can be a little on the pricey side – you should expect to pay more for food/drink etc. Though you shouldn’t be put off visiting, be a little wary if you’re on a tight budget!

However, there’s A LOT more to Berlin and, even if you’re planning a Christmas trip, it’s worth exploring what else the city has to offer – to be honest, after a few markets you get the idea … In some cities you get the impression that a weekend break is long enough to see the highlights but here, we could have done with an extra week to fit everything in:

  • East Side Gallery – I loved this! An open-air gallery consisting of various murals painted along a remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall.
  • Alexanderplatz – a large main square, featuring the iconic TV tower. Though when we visited it was home to a huge Christmas market.
  • Reichstag – The main feature is the unusual dome structure. I would definitely recommend going in the day to make the most of the 360 degree view of the city; unfortunately, the only slot we could get was late at night
  • Bradenburg Gate – unlike the Reichstag, you should visit this monument in the evening – the way it’s lit up makes it all the more impressive.
  • Tiergarten – a large park near both the gate and the Reichstag. It’s also home to the Berlin Zoo.
  • Potsdammer Platz – this square is a transport hub so you’ll probably end up passing through it even unintentionally. Once again, like most of the public squares, it was dominated by a market at the time we visited.
  • Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe – a memorial consisting of 2,711 concrete slabs constructed in remembrance of Holocaust victims.
  • Berlin Wall Memorial – an open-air exhibition commemorating the division of the city.
  • Checkpoint Charlie – the infamous crossing point is yet another reminder of the Cold War divisions
  • Both the Jewish Museum and the DDR Museum include fascinating, interactive exhibits.

We didn’t have time to see the Charlottenburg Palace or the Botanical Garden (pity because, as anyone who has ever travelled with me will tell you, I love a good garden!) but many people have recommended both to me.

If you’ve visited Berlin, what did you enjoy most? Let me know what I’ve missed and what I should make time for on my next visit – no doubt there will be another!

x

Review: Normal People – Sally Rooney

‘Connell wished he knew how other people conducted their private lives, so that he could copy from example …’ (p.49)

I have very mixed feelings about this book. Everyone raved about it when it was first published but it’s been sat on my shelf for a while, gathering dust. I finally picked it up because the series was about to be released … though now I wish I’d read it before even seeing the trailer – maybe I’d have imagined the characters differently. Overall, I liked the novel but found it dragged a bit; although I did want to know what happened next, I wasn’t desperate to find out, and it took me the best part of a month to finish, but this might say more about my attention span than the novel! Perhaps if I’d had read it over just a few days, this would not have been the case?

What I didn’t like:

At times I found aspects of the main characters and their story-line frustrating, both in terms of their individual behaviour and ‘back and forth’ nature of their relationship. My attitude towards the two of them changed constantly throughout the novel. Connell’s treatment of Marianne at school was irritating, and he fully deserved the tongue-lashing he got from Lorraine. But, however unfortunately, it is fairly realistic. You could argue that part of what makes this section so uncomfortable is that readers remember their own experiences of secondary school, ‘imbued with such drama and significance’ (p.77) at the time. The hyper-awareness of others’ opinions and changes in behaviour accordingly, maybe in a way they’d now be ashamed of. Whatever the reason, the early tone of the novel touches a nerve.

As such, there is something very universal in Connell’s realisation that no one cared as much as he had thought:

‘This was the most horrifying thing Eric could have said to him, not because it ended his life, but because it didn’t. He knew then that the secret for which he had sacrificed his own happiness and the happiness of another person had been trivial all along’ (p.77)

Marianne’s ambivalence to other people’s opinions is arguably a trait to be admired. However, this initial display of fierce independence makes it all the more frustrating and upsetting that she allows Jamie, then Lukas to treat her so badly; Connell voices (or rather internally monologues) a similar opinion.

The chronology also took me a while to get my head around; the first few chapters are a little jolting but then you get used to the structure – it reminded me of ‘One Day’, skipping to certain points of their relationship, and then filling in the gaps retrospectively.

The speech formatting – I know this is an artistic choice and a silly thing to complain about but at times it was hard to tell what was speech and when we’d moved back to internal dialogue.

Peggy – a terrible friend and person …

What I liked:

I was frustrated by Marianne and Connell at times but writing this review, I’m reminding myself that good writing isn’t creating completely likeable characters – that would be unrealistic, not to mention boring! Generating any emotional reaction, positive or negative, to words on a piece of paper means the author has achieved something.

I empathised with both of them at different points, especially with Connell’s anxieties about university and the opinions of other. They are both flawed, but you can see over the course of the book how they make each other better people. For me, the ‘normal’ presentation of their relationship worked well – it wasn’t sensationalised/overly-romanticised but was still intimate and affecting.

Sally Rooney writes three-dimensional characters very well, in the sense that she shows all sides of them – not just the good and the bad, but the mundane moments, their silliness and humanity. What I particularly enjoyed was her talent for  making you like the character but understand why other’s might not … I can easily imagine that if I were to bump into Marianne at a party, I might well share Helen’s opinion, finding her self-absorbed and irritating. But with context and the insight of how Connell views her, she is presented differently. Equally, though you have the internal dialogue from Connell that explains his decisions/rationalises his decisions from his perspective, it’s easy to see how these actions are confusing to other people and have the potential to hurt those around him, however unintentionally.

Also, I like learning new things and I now know what a ‘press’ is in Ireland …

Rating: 3.5 out of 5.

//Amsterdam//

Some more lockdown travel nostalgia for you …

Amsterdam + Windmills at Zaanse Schans

Amsterdam is one of those cities I was a little sceptical about – I’d seen so much of it on TV, film and travel blogs yet imagined it couldn’t possibly be that picturesque in life … but it is!

Or at least the areas we saw certainly were! Canals run alongside cobbled streets, traversed by those recognisable low arched bridges every two hundred metres or so. The quintessentially Dutch narrow buildings line each street, just as the many houseboats border the canals. There are bicycles EVERYWHERE and a specific aesthetic is created by an array of colourful window boxes throughout the day, and numerous strings of lights at night. The atmosphere is relaxed yet efficient – having lived in the UK for most of my life, it is always a surprise to see public transport arrive on time! And the Dutch just seem effortlessly cool, in style and attitude. It’s a contradictory statement but Amsterdam is somehow old and modern at the same time …

The only slight dampener on our trip was the weather. We went in mid-January and, although I’m usually a fan of winter/Christmas city breaks, it was just that little bit too cold! We did find ourselves struggling to walk on the icy cobbles and occasionally having to shelter in various cafes (not coffee shops – you’ll quickly learn the difference…). Not a hardship however as the food and drink was delicious. Above all else, I’d recommend stroopwafels , poffertjes (mini pancakes), and apparent Netherlands staple of chips in a cone with lashings of mayonnaise.

Amsterdam To Do List:

  • Anne Frank House – probably pretty near the top of most lists and definitely worth a visit. The rooms of Prinsengracht 263 are now part of a biographical museum and the whole set-up is entirely apt.
  • Canal Boat Trip – early evening just before sunset is the best time.
  • Van Gogh Museum – though unfortunately ‘Sunflowers’ had been removed for restoration when we visited.
  • Rijksmuseum – the highlight of which, for me, was seeing the dolls’ house that inspired Jessie Burton’s The Miniaturist!
  • Zaanse Schans – the famous windmills are just a short train ride from the city. It was snowing the day we visited, but around April/May time you can see the windmills against a backdrop of blooming tulip fields.
  • Jewish Cultural Quarter – there’s an emotive display in the museum of ‘left-behind’ items, accompanied by the stories of their original owners.
  • Moeders Restaurant – a fairly quirky eatery, decorated with pictures of strangers’ mothers. But go with it – it was my favourite restaurant of the trip. And get the ‘stamppot’!
  • ShoppingHaarlemmerstraat and the Jordaan area are full of independent boutiques and little vintage shops. I was on a tight budget, but could have spent a fortune there!
  • Go For A Wander – Amsterdam is a great city to just walk around, taking it all in. Prinsengracht and the adjoining canals are especially lovely.

PSA: Watch out for the bikes! Seriously – they are silent but deadly and Dutch cyclists could not give a flying stroopwafel that you were already at the crossing!

|Mental Health Awareness Week|

Over the past few days, I’ve made a few book recommendations on Instagram in recognition of Mental Health Awareness Week. As per my usual ‘procrastinatory’ ways, I’m a day late in posting this … the official week actually ended yesterday but I wanted to share these all the same:

  1. How To Quieten Your Mind – Anna Barnes

This little gem of a book was a gift from a friend. Full of wise words and beautiful illustrations, it’s the perfect ‘pep talk in paperback’ for your bedside table.

2. First, We Make The Beast Beautiful – Sarah Wilson

If I’m being honest, I first picked this up for its very cool cover and intriguing title. However, I bought it after reading the first few pages. This book is quite unlike anything I’ve read before, in a way that is hard to articulate. It’s chatty yet formal, personal yet universal and above all, empathetically reassuring.

3. Overcoming Anxiety Without Fighting It – Dr Tim Cantopher

Of the three, I would say I found this the most practically helpful. It is certainly the most scientific – the author is a consultant psychiatrist – though it’s far from just a medical textbook. He discusses anxiety disorders in depth, the potential causes and consequences, as well as coping strategies and possible treatment avenues.

**Also, if you aren’t already familiar with the charity Mind, please visit their website for a nose around – the work they do is fantastic**

//Vienna//

Vienna has been a permanent fixture on my travel bucket list and last year I finally made it there!

Currently spending lockdown browsing through my trip photos, so here are a few of my favourites.

Recommendations:

  • Hundertwasser House – worth a look just for the photos
  • Spanish Riding School if you can’t go to one of the official performances, try to get tickets to the morning practice. It’s literally dancing horses!
  • Stephansdom – 12th century Gothic cathedral with a jazzy Art Deco roof.
  • Schönbrunn Palace – I have to confess we didn’t make it here as we ran out of time, but it’s the place I regret not seeing.
  • Prater Park – highly recommended in nice weather. At one end there’s also a theme park with the Riesenrad Ferris wheel and the most vertigo-inducing chair swing ride I’ve ever seen.
  • Naschmarkt – a sprawling food market where you can buy pretty much anything. There’s also a flea market on Saturdays.
  • The Jewish Quarter – this was one of the most interesting section of the trip. There are several museums that document Jewish life in Vienna from about the 14th century onwards and the temporary exhibits are fascinating. In the middle of the so-called ‘Judenplatz’, you will also find the Holocaust memorial also known as the ‘Nameless Library’, featuring hundreds of books turned inwards.
  • Sachertorte at a coffee house – you won’t need to look far, they are EVERYWHERE. General rule of thumb is the more dated looking the better!

x

Review(ish): Twas The Nightshift Before Christmas – Adam Kay

“Full marks to the anaesthetist wearing a badge that says: ‘He sees you when you’re sleeping, he knows when you’re awake’.”

IMG_20200520_124714_337
A very un-Christmassy photo


Essentially, see my previous review of ‘This Is Going To Hurt’ (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) but just add in some mistletoe and bauble-based injuries!

I know it’s a cop out, not writing another separate review, but I couldn’t think of anything vastly different to say … The book is unmistakably Adam Kay – gallows humour and blistering honesty – so, like the first one, it is very VERY good!

B x