Travel

Wanderlusting

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Ria de Vigo, Galicia

I’ve been flicking back through my pre-covid travel photos and thought I’d share a few of my favourite trips – including Amsterdam, Barcelona, Vienna, Granada and Berlin. The picture above takes top spot for me though, taken just before I left Vigo at the end of my Erasmus year. I cannot recommend Galicia highly enough – it is the most severely underrated region of Spain! (maybe more on that at a later date …)

Though the rules have changed, I’ve been hesitant to book anything after my big trip to Australia/New Zealand was cancelled in 2020 but I’m now hoping to arrange a Eurostar excursion to Paris in Autumn and finally head to Antwerp for a thrice-rescheduled Bon Iver concert! Who knows, we may even make it to Australasia in 2023 …

//Lisbon//

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The few pictures I took on a mini-break to Lisbon a few years ago. The most miniscule of mini-breaks; we were in the city for less than 36 hours!

Due to current travel restrictions, I’m living vicariously through my old travel photos and optimistically (but hesitantly) planning future trips. I have very fond memories of Lisbon, in part due to the beautiful October weather we had. It’s a standing joke among my friends that I always take the British rain with me wherever I travel, so this made a nice change! Though 33 degrees at 8pm was a bit of a shock to the system …

All we lacked in Lisbon was time, not helped by getting ridiculously lost on the first day. This trip had been sandwiched between two busy work weeks and all planned around a concert at Coliseu dos Recreios (brilliant but sweltering given the evening temperatures). Which left us with only the Saturday afternoon and early Sunday morning to explore …

Lisbon Recommendations:

  • Go for a wander – I say this for every city … but it’s especially rewarding somewhere like Lisbon’s Alfama district. I could have spent weeks ambling around the sloping cobbled streets, admiring the terracotta rooftops and and vibrant buildings. Colour is everywhere at street-level in this part of town: window boxes bursting with flowers alongside painted doorways and street art everywhere!
  • São Jorge Castle – the views from the gardens are spectacular!
  • Mercado da Ribeira/TimeOut Market – indoor food markets are always a must and this one is especially varied.
  • Rossio Square – just quite impressive. Better to go before it gets too dark.
  • Padrão dos Descobrimentos – the Portuguese are proud their 15th century explorers …
  • Pastéis de nata – delicious custard tarts affectionately known as ‘natas’. I won’t confess how many we ate but enough that I can assuredly state they best enjoyed warm

No doubt I’ll return for ‘Lisbon: The Sequel’ in the future so please share any recommendations. What have I missed out on? Is Sintra worth a visit? What is your favourite local food?

xx

//Berlin//

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Berlin is one of my favourite cities – vibrant, fascinatingly historic yet somehow simultaneously modern … it’s just really cool.

We went for the Christmas markets in mid-December – definitely worth a trip! Beautiful lights and decorations everywhere, stalls brimming with unique gifts to bring home. Not to mention the delicious food and drink: Bratwurst, crispy fries, fluffy pancakes, hot chocolate, Eierpunsch (similar to eggnog), glühwein …. need I go on? Generally speaking, though the big Alexanderplatz and Weihnachtszauber market are better known, I would recommend the smaller set-ups. The Nikolaiviertel market is in a beautiful little church square, tucked away from the tourist masses and also hosts an outdoor cinema. Then if you fancy something a bit different, the Eco-Christmas market on Sophienstraße is fab too ❤

But be sure to take a warm coat at that time of year, as the markets are mostly open-air and the temperature has a habit of hovering below 0 degrees Celsius. It will also be incredibly busy; the markets are popular and therefore very crowded. It’s not a drawback necessarily, just something to be considered. As is the fact that, like many tourist attractions, the markets can be a little on the pricey side – you should expect to pay more for food/drink etc. Though you shouldn’t be put off visiting, be a little wary if you’re on a tight budget!

However, there’s A LOT more to Berlin and, even if you’re planning a Christmas trip, it’s worth exploring what else the city has to offer – to be honest, after a few markets you get the idea … In some cities you get the impression that a weekend break is long enough to see the highlights but here, we could have done with an extra week to fit everything in:

  • East Side Gallery – I loved this! An open-air gallery consisting of various murals painted along a remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall.
  • Alexanderplatz – a large main square, featuring the iconic TV tower. Though when we visited it was home to a huge Christmas market.
  • Reichstag – The main feature is the unusual dome structure. I would definitely recommend going in the day to make the most of the 360 degree view of the city; unfortunately, the only slot we could get was late at night
  • Bradenburg Gate – unlike the Reichstag, you should visit this monument in the evening – the way it’s lit up makes it all the more impressive.
  • Tiergarten – a large park near both the gate and the Reichstag. It’s also home to the Berlin Zoo.
  • Potsdammer Platz – this square is a transport hub so you’ll probably end up passing through it even unintentionally. Once again, like most of the public squares, it was dominated by a market at the time we visited.
  • Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe – a memorial consisting of 2,711 concrete slabs constructed in remembrance of Holocaust victims.
  • Berlin Wall Memorial – an open-air exhibition commemorating the division of the city.
  • Checkpoint Charlie – the infamous crossing point is yet another reminder of the Cold War divisions
  • Both the Jewish Museum and the DDR Museum include fascinating, interactive exhibits.

We didn’t have time to see the Charlottenburg Palace or the Botanical Garden (pity because, as anyone who has ever travelled with me will tell you, I love a good garden!) but many people have recommended both to me.

If you’ve visited Berlin, what did you enjoy most? Let me know what I’ve missed and what I should make time for on my next visit – no doubt there will be another!

x

//Amsterdam//

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Some more lockdown travel nostalgia for you …

Amsterdam + Windmills at Zaanse Schans

Amsterdam is one of those cities I was a little sceptical about – I’d seen so much of it on TV, film and travel blogs yet imagined it couldn’t possibly be that picturesque in life … but it is!

Or at least the areas we saw certainly were! Canals run alongside cobbled streets, traversed by those recognisable low arched bridges every two hundred metres or so. The quintessentially Dutch narrow buildings line each street, just as the many houseboats border the canals. There are bicycles EVERYWHERE and a specific aesthetic is created by an array of colourful window boxes throughout the day, and numerous strings of lights at night. The atmosphere is relaxed yet efficient – having lived in the UK for most of my life, it is always a surprise to see public transport arrive on time! And the Dutch just seem effortlessly cool, in style and attitude. It’s a contradictory statement but Amsterdam is somehow old and modern at the same time …

The only slight dampener on our trip was the weather. We went in mid-January and, although I’m usually a fan of winter/Christmas city breaks, it was just that little bit too cold! We did find ourselves struggling to walk on the icy cobbles and occasionally having to shelter in various cafes (not coffee shops – you’ll quickly learn the difference…). Not a hardship however as the food and drink was delicious. Above all else, I’d recommend stroopwafels , poffertjes (mini pancakes), and apparent Netherlands staple of chips in a cone with lashings of mayonnaise.

Amsterdam To Do List:

  • Anne Frank House – probably pretty near the top of most lists and definitely worth a visit. The rooms of Prinsengracht 263 are now part of a biographical museum and the whole set-up is entirely apt.
  • Canal Boat Trip – early evening just before sunset is the best time.
  • Van Gogh Museum – though unfortunately ‘Sunflowers’ had been removed for restoration when we visited.
  • Rijksmuseum – the highlight of which, for me, was seeing the dolls’ house that inspired Jessie Burton’s The Miniaturist!
  • Zaanse Schans – the famous windmills are just a short train ride from the city. It was snowing the day we visited, but around April/May time you can see the windmills against a backdrop of blooming tulip fields.
  • Jewish Cultural Quarter – there’s an emotive display in the museum of ‘left-behind’ items, accompanied by the stories of their original owners.
  • Moeders Restaurant – a fairly quirky eatery, decorated with pictures of strangers’ mothers. But go with it – it was my favourite restaurant of the trip. And get the ‘stamppot’!
  • Shopping – Haarlemmerstraat and the Jordaan area are full of independent boutiques and little vintage shops. I was on a tight budget, but could have spent a fortune there!
  • Go For A Wander – Amsterdam is a great city to just walk around, taking it all in. Prinsengracht and the adjoining canals are especially lovely.

PSA: Watch out for the bikes! Seriously – they are silent but deadly and Dutch cyclists could not give a flying stroopwafel that you were already at the crossing!

//Vienna//

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Vienna has been a permanent fixture on my travel bucket list and last year I finally made it there!

Currently spending lockdown browsing through my trip photos, so here are a few of my favourites.

Recommendations:

  • Hundertwasser House – worth a look just for the photos …
  • Spanish Riding School – if you can’t go to one of the official performances, try to get tickets to the morning practice. It’s literally dancing horses!
  • Stephansdom – 12th century Gothic cathedral with a jazzy Art Deco roof.
  • Schönbrunn Palace – I have to confess we didn’t make it here as we ran out of time, but it’s the place I regret not seeing.
  • Prater Park – highly recommended in nice weather. At one end there’s also a theme park with the Riesenrad Ferris wheel and the most vertigo-inducing chair swing ride I’ve ever seen.
  • Naschmarkt – a sprawling food market where you can buy pretty much anything. There’s also a flea market on Saturdays.
  • The Jewish Quarter – this was one of the most interesting section of the trip. There are several museums that document Jewish life in Vienna from about the 14th century onwards and the temporary exhibits are fascinating. In the middle of the so-called ‘Judenplatz’, you will also find the Holocaust memorial also known as the ‘Nameless Library’, featuring hundreds of books turned inwards.
  • Sachertorte at a coffee house – you won’t need to look far, they are EVERYWHERE. General rule of thumb is the more dated looking the better!

x

The Penelopiad // Ourense // Pontevedra

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The Handmaid’s Tale is one of the best books I’ve ever read, so needless to say I had high hopes for Margaret Atwood’s The Penelopiad. 

I find tales from Greek mythology fascinating so the idea of this ‘rewrite’ was certainly intriguing. The basic premise is an alteration in narrative perspective of Homer’s The Odyssey to that of Penelope, the dutiful wife. Atwood also chooses to focus on the fate of the story’s twelve murdered maids the deaths of whom, in the original version, are merely mentioned, an afterthought.

She plays with the strangeness of Greek myths – the casual acceptance of the vindictive gods, divine beings who turn mortals to trees and swans for their own amusement, and then too with the expected etiquettes of an ancient patriarchal society, drawing parallels to the modern day.

However, unlike the writings of Homer, Atwood does not glorify her hero, or in this case heroine, above all else. Her Penelope is held accountable and human fault on all sides is thoroughly addressed.

A thought-provoking, humorous and enjoyable read.

Rating: 4 out of 5.
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View from Ourense bridge

The Penelopiad was my reading material for both a trip to Pontevedra and Ourense, each as rainy as in Porto. On a sunnier day, Pontevedra would be a nice little day trip destination with a lovely old town, a few museums and a river walk.

Ourense itself we saw little of, though will be back in better weather for ‘termas’, hot springs surrounding the city. As we were there for Carnaval, we spent most of our time in the surrounding villages famous for their celebrations, Verin, Laza and Xinzo de Limia. These were unlike any event I’ve ever been to – strange traditions, delicious food and creative costumes – Entroido (Galician Carnaval) is a wonderful world of its own!

Stardust // Porto

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I have one word for Neil Gaiman – spellbinding.

Plain and simple. He masterfully creates such a complete, layered fantasy world for his reader that they are completely lost in it from the first page to the last. What perhaps makes it so entirely convincing is the delicate, seamless weaving of this existence with our own. Reading the novel becomes  a shared experience of the reader with Gaiman; they are “in on the joke” so to speak, watching from above as the novel’s stars do while their own reality remains close enough to add plausibility, without mundanity.

References, for instance, to common phrases – “There is a proverbial saying chiefly concerned with warning against too closely calculating the numerical value of un-hatched chicks” – or Yvaine, who, upon hitting the ground at the beginning of the novel, utters not an archaic exclamation in keeping with the assumed medieval setting of many fairy tales but rather ‘Ow’ and then ‘Fuck’. Little details like this ensure humour also remains ever-present.

In case you can’t tell, I enjoyed ‘Stardust’ very much.

Rating: 5 out of 5.
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In Porto, however, the weather was against us. Heavy rain and thick fog made it difficult to see much at all from the many viewpoints and the vibrant colours I’d been told so much about were dampened. I still very much enjoyed what we did see – the train station’s beautiful tiles, the park, little jumble sale antique shops, churches, higgledy-piggledy streets with flower-box windows and, of course, the river. Definitely resolved to go back when the weather looks more like the postcards I bought!